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The Pygmy Mouse (Mus Minutoides) is the smallest species in the family Mus. In the picture above 
are a full grown male (right 
) and female (left 
) with a teaspoon for
size comparison. They live throughout Africa, south of the Sahara. Being desert animals they are very conservative with water and produce very
little urine. That and their size make them an odorless pet. Because of their speed and delicate size these are NOT pets for children. Pygmies do
not tolerate temperatures below 60°F. Since they have special needs their care and introduction information is included on this page.
A comparison of 3 adult females. The one on the left is a Pygmy
Mouse, middle 
is a Fancy (house) Mouse and to the right is a Fancy Rat. I apologize for the quality of the pictures. They are
each in a mini-keeper (7⅛" L x 4⅜" W x 5½" H).
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As a social species they can be housed as bonded breeding pairs or colonies and as same sex pairs or colonies. It is best to put these animals together at weaning and not separate them and try to re-bond them later. If a breeding group needs to be separated because of problems with litters or partners, then it's best to keep a same sex offspring with each parent. The best way to introduce Pygmy Mice to each other is using a clean neutral territory as they are territorial. Whenever putting new animals together caution and observation are always called for. See Pygmy Mice Breeding & Babies for more on breeding groups.
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The important things to keep in mind are the size of your pet and their chewing habits. You need a tank they can easily maneuver around but can't escape. A 5½ gallon tank is the minimum size recommended. Pygmies are quite small and excellent jumpers. They can jump as high as 18". The standard 10 gallon tank is 12" high. The basic rule is one gallon per adult Mouse. A tight fitting screen cover with secure clips is a must. They can squeeze through very small spaces to escape so cages aren't suitable. Pictured is a townhouse I built.
Aspen shavings (shredded type not the flakes) or NEPCO's All God's Creatures Litter® are the best types of bedding available at this time. NEPCO's litter is fine, small chips of kiln dried hardwoods. Pine shavings can cause irritation to your pets' lungs and eyes. Cedar shavings are not to be used. The same fumes it gives off to keep moths out of clothes will harm your Mice. The oils will irritate their skin and lungs. Long term exposure destroys their kidneys thus reducing their already short lives.
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NEVER give your animals anything made from fiber to nest with like cotton. In a nest with babies, amputation and strangulation are common when the fibers twist around a limb or neck.
Toilet paper rolls that are almost used up are excellent nesting material. All rodents know what to do with the soft toilet paper and will enjoy demolishing the cardboard tube. Hay and straw may be added as a treat for your pets. They enjoy eating it and nesting with it. It will also provide a fresher smell to the cage.
Your Mice will appreciate a place to get away and build a nest. Make sure you get one the right size for it to get into and out of easily but
small enough for them to feel secure. Wood, plastic or ceramic houses are all good choices, however remember your pets are rodents and will chew
whatever you put in with them. This picture
shows how the Mice
will push bedding up to block the doors of the units they are in. I use a reptile 60 watt red heat lamp. I leave it on day and night on top of the
screen. After doing that I saw my Pygmy Mice more during the day and night.
Water, Food & More
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Because of their size, a ball bearing water bottle can not be used. Your new pet is not big enough to push the ball and get water. It's recommended you use a shallow dish for water. You may need to put a layer of stone in it to prevent the Mice from drowning. Also place it on a piece of wood so bedding doesn't get into it. I have found a test tube water bottle that works quite well since there is no need to move anything to get water. This is a picture of one. Your pets always need to have water available. Always use bottled or spring water since Pygmy Mice don't tolerate the chlorine. You can also allow tap water to 'air' overnight to let the chlorine to evaporate.
There are many, good quality commercial food mixes available. High price does not mean high quality. Pygmy Mice need smaller food then Fancy Mice. Canary, Finch or Parakeet food works well. Like Humming Birds, Pygmy Mice have a high metabolism and need plenty of food available at all times. Supplement your pets' diet with fruits, vegetables, nuts (shelled) and sunflower seeds. Breeding groups need to have extra protein which can be provided by giving them high quality dry Kitten food.
Vitamins are not necessary if your pets are otherwise healthy and are getting a good and varied diet. Water-soluble vitamins need to be given fresh daily and may increase the chance of bacterial growth in the water. Powdered vitamins can cause kidney and liver damage and eventually the early death of your beloved pets.
Again there are a number of good treats commercially available. Moderation is the key for your pets’ treats. Be careful of giving too many treats with fat, sugar or dairy products.
Rodents teeth never stop growing. They need to chew on hard items to wear them down. Again there are a number of items available. Each animal will have a preference on what it will chew. Alfalfa cubes are hard processed pieces of alfalfa. Not only are these good chews, but they help your animals’ digestion, too. Small dog biscuits that don't contain garlic are another good choice. Garlic is a poison to rodents. Rawhide chews work, too. Again, make sure there is no garlic added. Cheerios® and kashi make good treats.
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Wheels are the most common exercise equipment for rodents. Do not get the wire kind. Your Mouse's foot can slip between the wires and get broken. Get a wheel small enough that your animals can run on it and be able to move it. The wheel (Super Pet Silent Spinner) is very small (4½") and uses a ball bearing hub. A single Pygmy Mouse can make it turn. This picture shows a possible setup. It's a 5½ gallon tank and screen with clips. It has a townhouse I built, a couple of maple branches, 2 food dishes, a test-tube water bottle, small wheel, and a grapevine ball (craft store).
Feel free to get creative. Inexpensive things can often amuse your pets to no end. Tubes from toilet paper and paper towels for example. Instead of throwing them away, give them to your animals and they'll spend hours gnawing them down for their nest. Don't limit yourself to the small and furry section. I've found suitable items in the fish, reptile and bird areas.
You should never have to wash your rodent with soap and water. If absolutely necessary, you can take a damp cloth and sponge clean your animal. But you must take care the animal is kept warm and out of drafts until the fur dries.
Your normal dishwashing soap (not detergent) works well for cleaning the tank and the accessories. Make sure you rinse and dry well. Use vinegar for the crusty build up in the potty corner. This will also cut the smell from the potty area. Make sure you wash the vinegar off afterwards. Put fresh bedding material and all of the clean and dry items back into the cage. It's now ready for your Mice again. I routinely soak the food dishes and water bottles in a bleach solution. This insures a thorough cleaning against bacteria and mold. Rinse very well afterwards.
Health IssuesBeing aware of your pet's normal habits will help you recognize when there is a problem. The symptoms of an ill animal are ruffled fur, lethargic behavior, huddling in a corner alone, or clicking while it breathes (this is fluid moving in the lungs).
Mites are a common and persistent problem with all rodents. Treatment is discussed on the mite page. Because of their size I would be extremely cautious with over-treatment to avoid possible poisoning.
Unfortunately, the best advice I can give anyone with an injured or ill animal is to take it to a rodent veterinarian as soon as you notice an unusual condition. They will be able to diagnose correctly and prescribe what works best. Being such small creatures, action needs to be taken immediately when a condition presents itself.
Size - These guys are so tiny it's easy for them to escape and difficult to recapture them. Being so small their bones are quite fragile. Another breeder warned me that in a panic they can run into the side of a glass tank and crush their skull.
Temperature - Again size is a factor here. These little critters can not take temperatures below 60ºF. I use a reptile red heat lamp and leave it on 24/7. I see a lot more of them during the day with the lamp on.
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